Thursday, 12 September 2013

What (not) to Buy in La Bourboule


The shops in La Bourboule tend to cater to the lowest common touristic denominator, and mainly specialise in walking sticks, pottery with flowers, postcard, and similar stuff which loses its appeal rather quickly.  There are one or two shops that are a bit more up-market, and I try to avoid them.  There is also a flea market which I can’t avoid since it is on the way between my hotel and the Thermes and Le Galapagos.

Yesterday I almost bought a large cooking pot there, of the type called ‘marmite’.  It is a pot which is bulbous and greater in height than width and used for cooking stews.  This one was huge and made of cast iron.  It looked like the kind that used to contain eternal stew – it sat on a corner of the stove and any food that had no obvious other use was thrown into the pot.  Whenever anyone was hungry they dipped into the pot.  I love that sort of thing, especially in theory.  I seriously considered buying this monster and shipping it to Oxford for a small fortune – the pot itself was dirt cheap.

After much soul searching I bought a cashmere sweater in the most expensive shop in town instead.  It has been very cold, and I shivered even wearing a cardigan and a heavy shawl.  The cashmere is very good quality, I believe.  Made in Mongolia.  I tend to stick to Scottish cashmere, but this pullover does feel very good.  Not soft and fluffy but soft and buttery, if you know what I mean. 



Every time I go to La Bourboule I buy a golden leaf for one of my cardigans.  It is a little ritual – one leaf for every visit.  This time I bought a ‘houx’ leaf – that is ‘holly’ in English.  To make them they use real leaves and coat them in gold – the leaf remains inside!  I was a little disappointed when I found out they are actually made in Canada ….


I also buy books in La Bourboule, to help me learn French, and sometimes DVDs.  The selection in the shops is usually limited, especially at the end of the season, which is when I show up.  However, at the flea market there is often a good selection, and much cheaper that in the shops, of course.  This time I bought six, but I think I shall leave most of them in the communal area of the hotel – they are useless for learning French.  If the actors speak too fast, or use too much slang or strange accents then the movie is no good to me, so I shall watch ‘Svengali’ and ‘C’est pas mois!’ only once.  ‘Le crime de l’Orient Express’ is also unsuitable – the accents of some of the actors, especially Poirot, are insupportable.  ‘The Scorpion King – the Return of the Mummy’ proved an unexpected success.  Although I am fascinated by the scorpion king himself – he is half man half scorpion - I have all sorts of problems with the storyline.  Imhotep is supposed to be a bad guy?  Anubis is on the side of evil?  And the ease with which the soldiers of Anubis can be dispatches is laughable.  Nevertheless I can understand the language quite well.  It is the old story for me – the less believable a storyline the more slowly people talk and the better I can understand them.  I know all sorts of words about witches and evil queens and lost orphans and dragons and murdered corpses hidden inside of trunks and such like, but they are strangely unhelpful in getting by in modern day France






The books, too, are difficult to choose.  If they are too simple I learn the most, but get bored very quickly.  Also they mainly consist of pictures.  A few days ago I bought an old favourite of French children, ‘Methode Boscher ou La Journee des Tout Petits.  It rather reminds me of my first school book, Tür und Tor, aka Tut tut tut ein Auto.  I remembered that sentence for 45 years!

In the Methode Boscher there is a page for every letter, for every sound, and there are lots of examples and pictures.  Lots of algebra, too!  Unfortunately, strangely, this very basic textbook contains words which are not listed in my 50,000 word dictionary!  ‘Je achete un joujou’ – what on earth is a ‘joujou’?  I suspect it isn’t anything very important, but it bothers me that I don’t know!  I am struggling on nevertheless.  One day, when the children in the local school have fully taken me into their hearts, I will ask them.  Today they told me that my way of counting on my fingers had resulted in a risky gesture ….  I daren’t ask yet what a joujou is, I don’t want to acquire a reputation as a pervert … Some time ago when I asked someone – a grown up, I should add – what a trüdücül was (it is spelled differently, incidentally) I was told it was a very unladylike word.  It was the last name of a family in the movie Spaceballs, how was I supposed to know?  Learning French is full of tribulations!

PS   If you wonder whether I bought the four foot stuffed crocodile, I did not!  Folly has its limits, even with me.  What really stopped me was my fear of customs officials, actually.